Between working and still without internet at home!! Blogging from my I phone is very time consuming especially with these old eyes and big fingers and small keys.. ( that is changing soon.. Internet coming again to surfing grandmas house this week) yay!!
So I want to do a quick post about Saturday Doho surf with the Doho crew!
I surf a few breaks and have met and been invited into quite a few crews .. And this Saturday the Doho crew invited us for a Saturday Funday..they are some of the nicest and funniest people I surfed with.. Don't get me wrong I love all the crews I surf with.. Surfers are just awesome !
This was a crazy surf day for me .. Super crowded holiday weekend.. and I caught a few waves .. But had 3 crashes..
First one caught a right and looked and saw a dozen other people also caught that right .. So as I was trying to go faster and trying to cut a harder right .. I kicked my board out from under me slipped off and it went flying to the guy left of me.. Who some how jumped over it and continued surfing .. We paddled up to each other after and I apologized profusely !! He was more worried about me and wanted to make sure I was ok! Love it when it's Aloha in the water.
Then I was having problems catching waves . So one of the Doho guys .. Who ironically happen to know my husband for over 25 years..and reunited that day in the water.. Wanted to change boards ..his was 9-4 and I was on my 8-0 Mo.. I was very reluctant .. Knowing how crowded it was and that mass amount of people went after the same wave ..( welcome to Doho)
But he insisted..
So I went after a really nice wave and I had it.. Then I ran over someone .. Who I was told dropped in on me.. I'm really not sure what happen.. But I felt bad . My board kept going and it was a great wave. I didn't stand up because I was so worried about the guy I hit.. He paddled up to me after and he apologized .. And so did I and we wanted to make sure each other was ok..again Aloha in the water ...
Then I caught another wave and was on it when a board came flying at me .. A guy dropped in and his board hit my foot and knocked me off my board.. He grabbed his board and paddled away.. No I'm sorry .. No are you ok?? Nothing !! I was very disappointed .. But whatever ..(oh and my foot ended up swollen and black and blue.. But I slathered it in arnica gel and it's much better .. Still sore .. But better.)
So after 3 run ins and an hour later.. I figured it was time for me to get out.. So I went back and got my board .. And explained how I ran someone over and how someone hit me.. But Matt was cool and said not too worry about it.
Even when we came in.. I saw his board was a bit dinged and i offer to pay for it .. But he said not to worry about it. He had it handled.. He made this board and said he could fix it up it was no big deal.. See great people!
It was a fun day regardless .. And I can't wait to surf with this great crew again soon! .. But hopefully on a less crowded day